Monday, August 10, 2020

Dragon Boats on Land: A Surreal Twist on an Ancient Culture - 陸上龍舟競賽

by Charles DeBenedetto

            
     (Our dragon boats looked similar to these. Photo Credit: nsysu.edu.tw)

We are very close to what would have been the end of the semester, had it not been for, well, you know. Having delayed the spring semester by two weeks back in February, we are paying for it now, as we will continue to teach until mid-July.

(Side-note: Having to teach an extra two weeks is extremely inconsequential, in respect to how disruptive to normal life the virus has been in other parts of the world. I am fortunate and lucky.)

Mid-July is the time when Taiwan gets so hot as to be practically unlivable, and, as a result of that heat, many Taiwanese would normally travel to places like Japan, Europe, Canada, or, better yet, wintry places like Australia and New Zealand.

Obviously, though, we will not be travelling abroad this summer.

Without international travel as the finish line, it can feel especially daunting to finish the semester. Already I am counting how many classes left to teach before the summer holiday. When I clock-in, a robotic voice happily says “thank you,” and I appreciate it, thanking me for braving the heat and sweating at red lights on my little scooter to get here. And then the “thank you” at the end of the day is truly a trumpet fanfare, congratulating me on the successful completion of another work day. This late in the semester though, the “thank you” loses its potency.

There is a custom in Taiwan that I have found hard to acclimate to. When there is a long weekend coming up, you must have class on the Saturday prior, to “make-up” for time lost during the holiday. Back home, I imagine if schools tried to do this, then students would riot and the principal would be captured and duct-taped to the monkey bars, but here it is accepted as normal. But then, being so overworked before the holiday comes, you almost spitefully don’t want it, until of course you finally get there, and you triumphantly clock-out and ride your scooter into the sunset, singing “Vacation all I ever wanted” by the Go-Go’s.

That’s the backstory, anyway. So, after working nine out of the past ten days, I clock-in, get my “thank you,” and walk in with a slightly lighter step at the thought of the upcoming holiday. My temperature is taken, and one of my students giddily sprays disinfectant into my awaiting hands. As I walk in, I notice a strange sight.

Sprawled across the green field, four long, inflated yellow dragons, each with eight pairs of handles for people to grip while they straddle them. Complete with long black mustaches and googly eyes, they look cartoonish, and, laying on their sides, they look tired. Beside them, there are smaller, inflated orange caterpillars with six sets of handles.

The school bell rings, and the students slowly coalesce on the quad.

“Attention!” The booming voice of the student affairs administrator quiets all chatter among the students.

He explains that there will be four teams, comprised of students from grades one to five, and that all grades will use the caterpillar, except grade five, who will use the big dragon. The goal? Get your dragon (or caterpillar) across the quad, get off so the next grade can begin, back and forth until all the grades in your team have completed the relay.

The students get in position and the first graders straddle their caterpillars.

“Ready…go!”

Hopping desperately, they bounce up and down, but do not move forward. I encourage my team. “Don’t sit! Stand up and walk!” But their little legs cannot touch the ground! Quickly thinking, myself and the other teachers on our team help lift the caterpillar so they can move. One teacher pulls the caterpillar's head so hard that I am afraid it is going to pop off. Finally, they make it across, but the second graders are equally unable to move.

By the time it’s the third graders’ turn, we are so tired that we can barely cheer them on. Third and fourth grade goes by fine, until finally it’s time for the fifth graders to ride the enormous dragon. The dragon is designed for adults, so again the teachers move in to help. Summoning Herculean strength, one teacher pulls on the dragon mustache so hard that one half of it pops off! “Oh no, I think we rented these,” was my first thought. Finally, we bring them across the finish line.

 After the students are done, the teacher’s race is announced. Apprehensively, I straddle the caterpillar (yes, we decided the ride the caterpillar), sitting at the second position. In front of me, a Taiwanese homeroom teacher, a muscular man with a large straw hat to block the Sun. As the race begins, nobody keeps count for us, so we find our rhythm slowly, awkwardly. I scramble, and struggle to keep in-sync with the teachers in front and behind me. We go torpedo-fast, and I am terrified of falling out of step and tumbling off the damn thing. We make it across the quad, turn around and charge back toward the school as if we are invaders trying to break in with a battering ram. Passing the cone that symbolizes the finish line, we collapse on the ground. I didn’t even see who won, but I laughed at the absurdity of it all, and felt camaraderie with my team for sharing this ridiculous experience together.

Sprawled out on the grass, we have already expended all of the precious energy that we normally ration throughout the working day.

Winners are announced, prizes are distributed, and, the event being formally over, the first graders begin to pile on the big dragon, unable to contain their excitement. Sitting on the front half of the dragon now, and feeling mischievous, myself and some of the other teachers jump high into the sky. Upon landing, the force of our butts shoots the little first graders off of the tail end, followed by high-pitched shrieks and giggles. It’s a wonderful moment, but soon the bell rings again, the kids obediently shuffle into their classrooms, the dragons and caterpillars are deflated and rolled up, and a normal school day commences. 

* * *

Even though the day was normal after that, it did energize me to get through the last day of classes before the long holiday. More importantly, it made me feel connected to my coworkers and my students. All of this to celebrate the beginning of the Dragon Boat Festival, a Chinese tradition dating back thousands of years where traditionally people will race dragon boats, which are long and can seat many rowers, and are painted ornately to look like dragons.

The inflatable dragon boats that we used are not part of mainstream Taiwanese culture, but merely something fun that my school chose to do. Perhaps they will catch on in the future, but for now the actual dragon boats in the water are still the dominant culture. That being said, if the ancient Chinese are looking down, and if they can see the inflatable dragon/caterpillar shenanigans at my school, they might faint and fall off their clouds. But all cultures change in subtle ways over time, the most ancient perhaps being the most susceptible to change.

No comments:

Post a Comment